Kenmore Dishwasher Not Draining: Step-By-Step Troubleshooting Guide
When a Kenmore dishwasher leaves a pool of water at the bottom, your first thought is often “Pump failure.” In reality, most no-drain problems come from simpler issues—clogged filters, a kinked hose, or a forgotten knockout plug on a new garbage disposal. This guide walks you through the most common causes and the safest DIY fixes, plus clear signs it’s time to call a pro.
Power and water safety: Turn the dishwasher off. If you’ll be removing panels or reaching near wiring, switch off the breaker.
Protect your floor: Place towels in front of the unit; keep a bowl or shallow pan handy.
Helpful tools: Torx or Phillips screwdriver, pliers, flashlight, turkey baster or cup, zip ties, mild dish soap, small brush or old toothbrush.
How a Kenmore Drains
At the end of a cycle, the control board powers the drain pump, which pulls water from the sump (under the lower filter) and pushes it through the drain hose. The water usually goes to either:
An air gap on the sink deck (then into the disposal or sink tailpiece), or
Directly to the garbage disposal/sink tailpiece with a high loop in the hose to prevent backflow.
Any blockage or backflow at these points can leave water sitting in the tub.
Quick Checks (1–2 Minutes Each)
Run “Cancel/Drain.” Many Kenmore models have a Cancel/Drain or Cancel & Drain option. If the pump runs and the water level drops, you might be dealing with a minor clog that cleared or a one-off control hiccup.
Look at the sink. If your sink is slow or backed up, the dishwasher can’t drain into it. Clear the sink blockage first.
Listen for the pump. A gentle hum with no water movement can mean a jammed impeller or a blockage. Silence could indicate an electrical issue or a failed pump (but check for clogs before assuming it’s dead).
Step 1: Clean the Filter and Sump (Most Common Fix)
Remove the lower rack. Twist and lift out the lower filter and, if present, the fine mesh screen.
Rinse filters under warm water; scrub with a soft brush and a drop of dish soap. Avoid harsh pads—scratches trap debris.
Shine a flashlight into the sump (the opening under the filter). Remove food bits, labels, glass, or seeds with gloved fingers or tweezers.
Reassemble and run Cancel/Drain again. Why it works: A blocked filter or sump starves the pump and mimics a failure.
Step 2: Check the Air Gap or High Loop
Air gap present? Twist off the cap on the sink deck. Clean out sludge or debris using a bottle brush. Reinstall securely.
No air gap? Ensure the drain hose has a high loop—it should rise and be secured under the countertop before dropping to the disposal or tailpiece. Add a zip tie or clip if it sags. Why it matters: Without a clear air gap or a proper high loop, dirty water can wash back into the tub.
Step 3: Inspect the Drain Hose (Kinks & Clogs)
Pull the dishwasher forward a few inches (after removing the bottom kick plate if needed) and inspect the hose from the pump to the sink/disposal.
Straighten any kinks and feel for hard clogs.
Detach the hose at the sink/disposal end, placing a bowl underneath. Try to flush warm water through the hose using a turkey baster or short bursts from the faucet (gentle pressure). Tip: If you recently installed a new garbage disposal, make sure the knockout plug inside the disposal’s dishwasher inlet was removed. A left-in plug completely blocks drainage.
Step 4: Clear the Garbage Disposal or Sink Tailpiece
Even if the sink drains, the small inlet port can clog with grease and scale.
Remove the dishwasher hose from the disposal/tailpiece.
Use a screwdriver to gently clear the port; flush with warm water.
Reattach the hose and tighten the clamp—snug, not crushing.
Step 5: Examine the Drain Pump
If you hear the pump humming but not moving water—or it’s silent after the control calls for drain—check the pump area.
Unplug power or switch off the breaker.
Remove the lower access panel. Locate the drain pump (usually at the front or side of the sump with two wires and a small outlet to the drain hose).
Look for obstructions: broken glass, popcorn kernels, toothpicks. Carefully pull out debris.
Check for visible leaks or burned odor (possible pump failure).
If you’re comfortable with basic testing, you can check continuity on the pump motor. No continuity often indicates a failed pump. Note: Replace parts only if you’re confident about model compatibility and safety.
Step 6: Check Valve or Flapper (Backflow Preventer)
Many systems use a small check valve or rubber flapper to stop water from flowing back. If it sticks open, water returns to the tub.
Access it near the sump outlet or within the drain hose assembly (location varies by model).
Clean or replace if warped, torn, or stuck.
Step 7: Float and Float Switch
A stuck float (the small dome or tower in the tub) can tell the control board that the dishwasher is already full, interfering with normal operation—including drain logic on some models.
Move the float up and down; it should travel freely and click lightly.
Clean around it; remove any hardened detergent or scale.
Step 8: Control or Wiring Issues (Less Common)
If mechanical parts are clear and the pump is known-good but won’t energize, you could be looking at a control board, door switch, or wiring harness issue. These require model-specific diagnostics and are typically best left to a professional.
Troubleshooting Scenarios (What Your Symptoms Suggest)
Water drains slowly, then returns: Missing high loop, clogged air gap, stuck check valve, or a partially blocked sink/disposal inlet.
Pump hums, no movement: Jammed impeller or blocked hose; occasionally a failed pump.
No sound at all on Cancel/Drain: Loose connection, bad door switch, failed control, or bad pump—after ruling out clogs.
Only a little water left (shallow puddle): Normal. A small amount of water remains to keep seals wet. Deep standing water, however, is not normal.
After installing a new disposal, it won’t drain: Most likely the knockout plug was not removed.
Maintenance to Prevent Future No-Drain Issues
Rinse big debris (bones, pits, popcorn kernels) from plates before loading.
Clean filters monthly. It takes two minutes and prevents 80% of drain complaints.
Run hot water at the sink for 10–15 seconds before starting the dishwasher to improve early-cycle wash and reduce grease buildup.
Use quality detergent and the right amount—too much suds can impede draining.
Descale with a dishwasher cleaner every 1–3 months if you have hard water.
You’ve cleaned filters, verified the high loop or air gap, checked the hose and disposal, and it still won’t drain—or you’ve found signs of an electrical problem, leaks, or a likely bad pump. That’s the moment to bring in help. If you couldn’t fix it, contact us and we will fix it. You can also learn more about services on our dishwasher repair page.
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